Days 52-56: March 10-14, 2023

California Dreams

We voyaged into Charleston in the afternoon. Given our anchor woes the last few days the Hodaks decided to anchor separately. Steve was already anchored when we arrived, and I took the easy option and rafted on him. Tonia was on a work call and thus I did it single handed. After her meeting she came up to have lunch on Coda and couldn’t figure out why Saga looked different. Took her a quick minute to realize we were rafted to Coda and not Saga. It was very amusing.

That night we decided to check out the nearest restaurant called California Dreaming. It was mostly due to proximity and them having a dinghy dock that led to the choice. But it was a great decision. They had amazing food. Best on the loop so far.

That night we also had a great sunset. Sunsets never get old.

On day two Saga headed into the dock to meet up with some old friends. We ran some project errands, checked out the marina (with a very organized dock plan), and then met up for Sangria Saturday happy hour on Saga.

A little commotion in the neighborhood

The next morning over coffee we noticed some Coast Guard activity going on. There was a sailboat that seemed to have been tied up to posts alongside the bridge, which isn’t typically allowed as it blocks transiting and, well, you just don’t tie up to bridges. We watched the Coast Guard boat relocate the sailboat and anchor it out of the way. Shortly thereafter, the two bridges opened for a boat to pass through.

Relaxing Day

Tonia, Barbara, and I went out in search of pizza. We found a candidate and headed that way. The place was called “Toast! All Day.” Turns out they have wood-fired pizza on the menu but discontinued it many months ago. Oh well, they also had pitchers of peach bellini. I may have ordered two and got Tonia and Barbara a little bit loopy. Ha Ha Ha.

The outing was cut short when Steve messaged that we were swinging closer to other boats, and he was going to the dock. The message was basically “get your butt back here and move”. We didn’t slip anchor, but the area was tight and had a lot of derelict vessels. One sailboat tenant was pretty vocal that we were too close. The marina had enough space, so we cruised over a day early.

Dinner that night was at the Blind Tiger. We had a friendly Uber driver who gave us the rundown of the celebs with homes nearby in Charleston, like Darius Rucker, Bill Murray, and Dan Marino. The driver even had a list of restaurants and sights that tourists could take a quick photo of for suggestions of where to go.

Arrival of Jason and the boys

Tonia’s brother Jason and our nephews Austin and Brantley flew in to visit. They arrived later in the day so not much to report as it was a work and prep day. Just excitement to have them visit.

The next day we decided to head over to Patriots Point and check out the aircraft carrier USS Yorktown and the destroyer USS Laffey. The kids were so-so on the adventure though troopers overall. I had a good time exploring the ships and seeing how the sailors lived and worked. Jason got to see what the dental setup would be on the ship too.

When the exploring was over, we walked over to the closest restaurant. It was the Charleston Harbor Fish House. They were running a great burger and beer special. The burger was pretty tasty. Which is saying something for a fish house. I’d have to say I’ve eaten a lot of fish on this trip, and it was nice to eat something different.

Indoor trampoline park

After lunch, we met up with the Hodak kids to play at the indoor activity center. We’d find out later this would be a (or “the”) favorite part of our nephews’ trip. They had some massage chairs so Jason could get some relaxation in on his vacay too. Tonia and Mayli went next door briefly to check out the gluten-free cookie options – always on the lookout for a goodie for Annette.

Last night in Charleston

We got back to the boats for a quick breather. Then decided it was time to find some dinner as it was getting too late to make something. We found a restaurant that would take our large party of ten and while waiting for the reservation, the kids played some football in the park by the water. It had a cool pineapple fountain and spectacular views.

Dinner was at Hyman’s restaurant. The hushpuppies passed out while waiting for our table were a hit. The restaurant had a long history and seemed to have been frequented by many celebs. It seems the Beach Boys sat at our table!

While the adults finished their beverages, Jason and Tonia took the boys next door to Peace Pie for ice cream sandwiches. They had your standard “pie” flavors like pecan pie, which was yummy, and chocolate mint. They also had some interesting combos, like “The Elvis” featuring chocolate ice cream, banana butter and peanut butter chiffon sandwiched between chocolate cookies, which Tonia had to try out.

Day 52 Trip Details:
Colleton County, US to Charleston, US
Time: 4 h 50 m (06:58 to 11:48)
Distance: 35.24 nm

Day 54 Trip Details:
Charleston, US to Charleston, US
Time: 0 h 36 m (14:24 to 15:00)
Distance: 0.51 nm

Days 49-51: March 7-9, 2023

Fresh off the anchor slipping experience we headed off to Beaufort, SC, to anchor again. You know the saying: Get right back on the horse. This anchor session went fine. However, the topic of the day was that Boris needs a bigger anchor. The added weight of Coda pushes us to the capacity of the current anchors holding power. A topic for later discussions.

On to Beaufort! It’s a cool town with a public dock that allows three hours of moorage. Steve decided Coda would be the ferry boat and we all loaded up and headed into town.

Beaufort is known for some movies. The bridge that leaves town is the one from Forrest Gump a scene where he’s running across the country. Pretty neat.

We got a bit of lunch, walked the town a bit, and somehow ended up at a chocolate shop. Imagine that. Tonia thought the Tetris mural was the bee’s knees. And, thus, we have a picture of Steve by it. We liked the chocolate shop’s motto too… check out the bottom of the Chocolate Tree.

After indulging, we strolled around a bit more.

On Day 2 in Beaufort, it had been previously planned (for weeks) to visit the kazoo factory. What!?! You read that right. An actual kazoo factory! Kazoobie Kazoos had a great tour and we all got to make and keep a kazoo, yes the kids too, at the end.

After the kazoo fun, we headed that afternoon for the next destination, an overnight anchorage on the way to Charleston. We anchored the three boats just with a beautiful sunset to settle us in.

Morgan/Monkey Island & Dataw Island

Day 51 marked some real monkey business. Mayli was set on seeing monkeys at Morgan Island (aka Monkey Island, for a reason) near our anchorage and Tonia was game since those monkeys are related to her lab’s work. Coda took off to head towards Charleston and check for possible anchorages along the way. We followed Saga a little further east around the island to the tree-lined side to see if there were any monkeys in sight from the boats. We’re not allowed to step foot on the island as these are former research monkeys (see development of Morgan Island’s Rhesus macaque colony and more recent info about Monkey Island) though they can be viewed from the water, if you’re lucky.

Well, it seems luck was both on our side and also not so much. We DID see monkeys!

Yet, we also suffered from this distraction causing us to have a huge lapse in awareness of our dinghy location—meaning we ran over our own line. What a rookie mistake!

We did catch it rather quickly when we heard the engine stutter, though the line was already around a propeller at that point. We set anchor to ensure we wouldn’t drift towards the island or shallow water and called to Saga for assistance. You could say we were rather lucky that Boris is an accomplished diver and had all of his equipment along. While he hadn’t been able to use it yet on the trip given our cancelled Bahamas plans, we gave him plenty of reason now… After anchoring Saga, he donned his dive equipment and swam over to our boat to cut the wound-up line off of our propeller. He got most of it off though the current was rather strong so we called it and went to nearby Dataw Island Marina where there was a mechanic to help check things out and Boris could finish the job with the boat tied to the dock at slack tide.

With the line completely off, the mechanic verified there was no leaking. We’d need to get the backup propeller seals replaced at some point as there were not useful any longer. We were very grateful the staff and mechanic at Dataw Island were super friendly and very accommodating getting us on the dock and quickly checking things out. We were still able to make our way out that same day anchoring partway to Charleston.

Below: random pick of old Coke ice box at the marina office and Saga at dock to help us out!

Day 49 Trip Details:
Palmetto Bay Marina, Hilton Head Island, US to Beaufort, US
Time: 3 h 45 m (06:16 to 10:02)
Distance: 23.19 nm

Day 50 Trip Details:
Beaufort, US to Waterfront Park Dock, Beaufort, US
Time: 0 h 21 m (11:27 to 11:48)
Distance: 0.73 nm

Day 50-2 Trip Details:
Waterfront Park Dock, Beaufort, US to Beaufort County, US
Time: 2 h 40 m (15:42 to 18:23)
Distance: 14.04 nm

Day 51 Trip Details:
Beaufort County, US to Beaufort County, US
Time: 3 h 04 m (08:57 to 12:01)
Distance: 6.19 nm

Day 51-2 Trip Details:
Beaufort County, US to Colleton County, US
Time: 2 h 1 m (15:53 to 17:55)
Distance: 14.09 nm

Days 46-48: March 4-6, 2023

While Savannah was great, and we could still have toured it for days, it was time to move on. We started up and made a 4-hour voyage to Hilton Head Island. And just like our boat, Hilton Head is shaped like a tennis shoe. The voyage puts us in the third state on our trip!

We opted to anchor out and try out rafting three boats now that Coda has joined the fun. That worked out pretty well except for the last morning where Steve was running around the boats like crazy waking people up when the anchor started dragging. More on that later…

The sunsets on the loop have been pretty amazing. the best have been at anchor over the various scenery we’ve encountered. The camera never seems to capture the actual beauty as well as seeing it in person.

The group decided to check out the Sea Pines Forest Preserve where there are shell rings that date back 4000 years. Amazing! We saw birds, turtles, horses, and alligators!

Our next stop? You guessed it! Ice cream! The group needed a snack before tackling more touristy stuff, so we headed to the shop area and sampled the large number of flavors. The Frozen Moo did not disappoint!

The last stop on Hilton Head was the Coastal Discovery Museum. They have a small exhibition area and some walking trails and boardwalks that take you around the property. We were there at low tide so got to see the tide switch and the water running back in.

Photo credit to Boris’ mom for capturing us enjoying our nature walk. Thanks Vera!

And now back to the anchor dragging… We had planned a nice leisurely departure from Hilton Head. A “get up and have coffee” relaxing kind of plan. That was all thwarted when just after 6 am we heard loud knocking and yelling. Tonia’s and my first reaction was “Damn it Boris, it’s not yet coffee time.” At the same moment, the anchor alarms started blaring and we realized it was someone trying to get our attention. We surfaced from below to find Steve running around yelling to start the engines. After three nights at anchor, we had started dragging and were heading towards the mooring field.

We complied and started up to stabilize the raft. However, the current was so strong we had drifted to the first mooring ball next to the anchorage. Luckily the dinghy was there to buffer us. The dinghy engine got caught up on the mooring line tied from the ball to the sailboat and prevented us from hitting any of the boats. We quickly got the raft untied and Coda and Saga were off. However, we still had the dinghy motor over the mooring buoy line. Not in a position to deal with it, we quickly decided to untie the dinghy (it wouldn’t go anywhere) and come back for it with the kayak. While not completely optimal with the current, it was better than trying to keep the entire boat from getting tangled up.

I maneuvered a distance away and Tonia got the kayak ready. When she was somewhat prepared (jumping in once lifejacket was on through getting caught up in the inflatable seat a bit), she quickly paddled her way over to the dinghy. The current was at a high point, so she had to paddle hard. She made it alongside the dinghy and climbed aboard. She tied on the kayak so it wouldn’t float away and with a couple grunts got the dinghy engine off the mooring line. With the dinghy now free, I went downstream in Lil Sudden to pick them up. This may have been the toughest part as it had to be done quickly so we didn’t float into other boats and so I didn’t miss connecting with Tonia.

It was a successful operation, and we were finally underway north. I would not recommend waking up in this way and definitely not missing coffee for it. Unfortunately, no photos since we were preoccupied at the time.

Day 46 Trip Details:
Thunderbolt, US to Hilton Head Island, US
Time: 4 h 1 m (10:06 to 14:08)
Distance: 21.13 nm

Day 44: March 2, 2023

It’s Bananas! BA-NA-NA-S!

We started out the day early taking Emily to the airport. It was sad to see her leave as we had a really great time with her.

We technically boated today though just from downtown Savannah to another suburban marina. We got off the dock about 10am and did the quick 1.5-hour trip over to the Thunderbolt Marina.

Once the boats were settled in, we headed out to the local Mexican Grill Jalapenos. It was a chill afternoon with Tonia working and us all waiting for the event that Boris had been talking about for at least six months: The Savannah Bananas!

Who are the Savannah Bananas you ask? The Bananas and their opponent The Party Animals are exhibition baseball teams that play “Banana Ball“. It’s baseball with some unique rules that make it extra fun to watch. The MLB could take a few of them to spice up their league. Just saying.

If you ever get a chance to see a game, do it! They do travel around the country so check if they come to a stadium near you.

The players (above) by 1st and 3rd bases were “frozen” the entire game in a face off. The other teams would mess with both of them but they didn’t budge from their stare off the entire game and until well after it ended!

Below are a few video highlights. Enjoy!

Day 44 Trip Details:
Savannah, US to Thunderbolt, US
Time: 1 h 26 m (09:55 to 11:22)
Distance: 9.24 nm

Day 43: March 1, 2023

On the 2nd day in Savannah, it was time to be a tourist. We did a self-guided walking tour around the historic area. But only after we had a snack at the local Parisian Cafe of course. As with many towns in the country, we stumbled upon my hometown fire hydrant. Good old Clow Foundry from Oskaloosa.

We strolled thru the cemetery to see all the old historic citizens of Savannah. And there are a good number that make the history books. It seems to be common that when Tonia, Emily, and I are together we find very old cemeteries. I think they are trying to tell me something.

Prohibition?

What? That’s not a thing on the Great Loop! But Savannah does have a museum dedicated to the amendments that instituted and repealed prohibition. We opted for the guided tour to get the full experience and our guide was pretty entertaining.

At the end they made us a few ‘bootleg’ drinks common during Prohibition. One option was a glass of moonshine and a beer chaser. It wasn’t the best drink we’ve tried.

Waving girl

Savannah used to have a girl that waved to all the ships as they entered and left the harbor. The story goes that she did not miss a ship in 44 years. Waving a handkerchief in the day and a lantern at night.

Ghosts!

The tourist day was rounded out by a ghost tour. We think we may have caught some photos touched by apparitions. Spooky!

Sexy cat and dessert

The group that still had some pep decided dessert was in order. So, we followed Emily for a late-night jaunt across the historic area to have some fancy libations and decadent treats on her last night with us all. What better place to go than Better Than Sex? Next door to the restaurant was a cat cafe. In true form for the evening, it sported a real-live sexy cat posing in the window for us.

The restaurant was neat. May be better for a date than perhaps a group like ours but we still had fun with it. The electronic menus offered up provocative drink and dessert titles and descriptions. The waiter was a bit over the top with the innuendos yet, overall, a great time. The key lime pie was the best of the trip. So far…

Day 42: February 28, 2023

Reunited

We rolled into Savannah and reunited with our long-lost boat mate SteveO on Coda. Steve and his sister Barbara backtracked from Charleston to meet up with us. We were supposed to meet up in Florida, but Steve voyaged ahead to spend some quality time with his kids earlier this year.

Also waiting for us in Savannah was our good friends Jeff and Norma. They made the trek over from their home in Atlanta.

After a safe arrival beverage on the boat, it was time to continue the reunion at Wet Willies. Nothing like wings and a great alcohol-infused slushies.

After some grub and drinks, the gals went for a stroll along the waterfront to check out the shops and sights. The guys went back to the boats for, um, a nap? There were lots of fun shops where some immediate purchases (like the guys’ shirts above) were made. There were shops to try out southern-style pralines and sweet and savory cookies. The Marriott was cool as it was renovated from the old, abandoned power plant. The super-large atrium had humungous, person-sized geodes and fossil replicas as well as lots of other cool art. Even if you can’t stay there, it was neat to walk through to check out.

That night Emily decided we were going bar hopping. We did hit up two of the rooftop bars. First up was Top Deck with a chill vibe and great view. Next was the Electric Moon, which was pretty cool. Norma went with the fancy lighted glass, and they have a slide to quickly get to the lower lounge area! Jeff and I had to try it out!

Day 42 Trip Details:
Liberty County, US to Savannah, US
Time: 6 h 4 m (06:48 to 12:53)
Distance: 45.80 nm

Days 40-41: February 26-27, 2023

Before heading out, there was a little time for kayaking.

Then it was goodbye to Jekyll Island.

The dinghy ride to nowhere

Ok, technically we went to Brunswick. However, upon arriving we found the public dock to only cater to VERY large boats and no way to tie up the dinghy. The only marina there was not too friendly. Even offering to buy fuel didn’t get them to allow us to tie up for a quick trip to the grocery store.

It was Instacart to the rescue. We ended up putting in an order and having it delivered to us at the public park with a boat ramp close to the anchorage. It worked out well in the end though I really don’t understand a marina not willing to allow a dingy to tie up for provisions, especially if purchasing fuel. I get not wanting the derelict boat owners to continuously come in; however, you can solve that by charging a nominal tie-up fee, which we’d have gladly covered. Maybe it’s insurance, though charging a fee is the same as renting a slip so that should also cover it.

The quest for tree spirits

Mayli had read about the St. Simons tree spirits. Her, Tonia, and Emily were going to find some! They attempted to get a Lyft/Uber ride from the park to the downtown starting point except the rides were sparse or out 20-30 minutes. They decided they could use the movement and steps and walked the 3 miles to town.

The first stop, an ice cream reward at Moo Cow! It was delicious and hit the spot. Onwards to find tree spirits!

While on the search for tree spirits, they were able to take in the public fishing pier, park sculptures, lighthouse, and popped into a few stores. Emily would recommend against trying whole honeycomb unless you like trying to get wax out of your teeth for a long while!

The Golden Isles Welcome Center provided a map of where to find the 11 carvings on live trees throughout the island. The first tree spirit was an easy find! The full-size mermaid was right next to the Welcome Center!

The next one was a trickier find. Emily found an article giving clues to its location, which happened to be near a small hotel’s swimming pool. The third was an easier find as it was just in front of the Village Inn & Pub right next to the sidewalk. The next two were located in park areas across the street from each other just a couple blocks away—there were a LOT of trees so it took all three to search the many trees to find those two. With five of the eleven public tree spirits found (there are presumably around 20 as some are on private properties) and the rest requiring a bike or car to find, they decided it was time to head back. Thankfully, they were able to get a ride partway back after 5+ miles of walking that day! Funnily enough, the #11 tree spirit was actually located in the park where they started, though it was not easily visible. It was quite the fun adventure!

The day ended with a wonderful sunset.

As can be seen from the Day 41 map below, it was a long, almost 9-hour transit day. We contemplated stopping to break it up into two days but decided instead to get as close to Savannah as we could so Emily would have a chance to see a bit of the town before leaving us. There was, however, time for a little fishing! While we didn’t catch fresh fish for dinner as Emily really wanted, I did catch a sting ray. He was promptly returned to the wild as no one wanted Ray for dinner.

Day 40 Trip Details:
Jekyll Island Marina, Glynn County, US to Glynn County, US
Time: 1 h 22 m (11:13 to 12:36)
Distance: 8.05 nm

Day 41 Trip Details:
Glynn County, US to Liberty County, US
Time: 8 h 49 m (07:20 to 16:09)
Distance: 54.68 nm

Day 39: February 25, 2023

The Jekyll Harbor Marina was really welcoming and also offered free bikes to use, so we took advantage. We all selected our bikes and took off for the historic district. It was an easy one-mile ride on a nice, paved trail along the waterfront. You’ll never guess the first stop…

We quickly found the Island Sweets Shoppe for some ice cream. Tonia’s peach ice cream was great! They also had chocolates in the shape of sand dollars, sea turtles, star fish (aka sea stars), and shells, not to mention HUGE gators! The shop is located in what used to be the San Souci Boiler House, which provided heat and hot water for the nearby fancy San Souci Apartments, and therefore the reason for the chimney you see in the pic with the giant oak that Michael of course had to climb with ice cream in hand.

After the sweet stop, we made our way to the MOSAIC museum to check out the local history and start the trolley tour.

Jekyll Island Clubhouse

Trolley stop to tour the Rockefeller “cottage”

The San Souci Apartments and other millionaire mansion “cottages” in the historic area near the clubhouse that accommodated the J.P. Morgan, Vanderbilt, Marshall Field, William Rockefeller (younger brother of John D.), Astor, Carnegie, Goodyear, and other families in the winter season.

At the end of the afternoon, we visited the turtle rehabilitation center. It was a nice facility nursing injured and sick sea turtles back to health for release to the wild when ready. There were also some babies too!

We had a little buffer time before dinner so biked around a bit more and we briefly checked out the Faith Chapel, which is still in use. It was simplistic yet with a few ornate features. It has two stained glass windows – “Adoration of the Christ Child” at the front of the chapel and one at the back, the latter of which was actually commissioned and signed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, though it’s currently removed and offsite for restoration care. A neat feature were the grotesques, similar to gargoyles though on the interior beams.

Fun in the Jekyll Island Club big chair!

Finally, it was time for some dinner! Hard to beat a waterfront restaurant so we settled in for some grub at The Wharf.

We ended the day attempting to get provisions from local market except it was more of a tourist souvenir store with some groceries that were quite expensive, like eight bucks for half gallon of milk! We grabbed a couple small things and called it. It was an adventure overall with Emily, Mayli and Tonia biking there and back in dusk and dark (on bike trails).

Day 39 Trip Details:
Camden County, US to Jekyll Island Marina, Glynn County, US
Time: 3 h 44 m (07:19 to 11:03)
Distance: 23.95 nm

Day 38: February 24, 2023

We’ve arrived in Georgia!

To maximize the day, we decided to get up at sunrise. That allows us to get the 4.5 hours of travel in and still have time to explore Cumberland Island. The charts showed that it was a half hour faster to travel on the outside (ocean) and the weather was good, so we headed out into the Atlantic as the sun was rising. Going on the outside in good weather is nice. The autopilot is set on straight for a few hours and there is less stress with traffic, windy rivers, and the water is much deeper.

After the trip we anchored next to Cumberland Island. Cumberland Island is home to the Dungeness Ruins. Dungeness is a ruined mansion that was donated by the Carnegie family and is now a national park. The ruins area is a vast estate where the family started on the island before each Carnegie child built their own mansions nearby. Unfortunately, the ruins exist because of a fire in 1959 that destroyed most of the house. It was fun seeing all the workings of an estate from the early 1900s and the beautiful island and grounds there.

Fun side note: In St. Augustine the trolley tour guide was super excited to tell us about the palm tree growing in the middle/top of the fork of Old Senator, a 600-year-old tree and longest-living resident of the town. However, we found a live oak growing around a full-size live palm! Check it out below and find the hidden climber.

The national park has a nice trail system and one of them leads to a neat and large beach. We took some time exploring the trails and walking down the beach.

Another interesting quirk of Cumberland Island is the wildlife. The island is home to many wild horses that can be easily seen wandering around the ruins and trails as well as the beach (see above). Careful where you step! We also spotted five armadillos along our way through the island and trails.

Day 38 Trip Details:
Jim King Marina, Jacksonville, US to Camden County, US
Time: 4 h 29 m (06:38 to 11:07)
Distance: 32.80 nm

Days 36-27: February 22-23, 2023

We departed St. Augustine and with good weather took to the outside. Traveling in the open Atlantic is a nice change. While you still have to watch the helm continuously it’s a lot less effort because you are on the same course for a long period of time and the depths are not usually a concern.

We decided to stay on the outskirts of Jacksonville on a city-owned dock at Sister’s Creek. Boating into the city would have added a bunch of time and we only planned to stay one day, plus it was free up to 72 hours. The drawback to this location is Uber/Lyft are not as easy to come by and can result in a bit of a wait.

The free dock is decent. However, there is a large current running parallel to the dock, and it takes a bit of maneuvering to get the boat settled on. Dock was wide open when we arrived so and it only took two tries since the current blew us past the first time.

We were so excited for our first esteemed boat guest: Emily flew in to stay with us for a week!

Jacksonville Downtown (Feb 23)

On the 23^rd we opted to take an Uber to the downtown area of Jacksonville. The start location chosen was Sweet Pete’s Candy Shop, of course. Though maybe not the best place to begin with as the kids didn’t seem to want to see anything else after and perhaps resulted in little tummy aches…hmmm, wonder why?

We spent a couple hours wandering around checking out the sites. It’s a nice downtown area but is a big city so has that feel. We did find a bunch of food trucks and hit them up for lunch.

Caught a little of the bridge coming back down after letting a boat through. This one had a lift mechanism versus drawbridge like Seattle.

Downtown fun with running statues!

After lunch we walked down to the Maritime Museum though opted not to tour it since as was very hot and admission workers said it would be miserable. Instead, we all decided it was time to go back to the boats and do some kayaking. Much easier to get an Uber in town.

Goodnight Moon! Goodnight Jupiter! Goodnight Venus!

Day 36 Trip Details:
Saint Augustine, US to Jim King Marina, Jacksonville, US
Time: 5 h 41 m (07:05 to 12:47)
Distance: 39.35 nm